Accommodation in Baghdad is generally on the expensive side and, if money’s no issue, there are some decent 5* and 4* hotels, some of which have lovely views of the Tigris. However, if you’re travelling on a budget, or are undertaking a long trip during which accommodation costs can really rack up, you’ll be looking for cheaper digs.

At time of writing, we’d say you’re unlikely to find somewhere acceptable for less than IQD40,000 and that could be a struggle. Many of the lower-end hotels can be found on Sharra Sa’adoun (Sa’adoun Street) in downtown Baghdad. If you’re planning an extended stay, you might be able to negotiate a cheaper nightly rate but we would advise trying a hotel out for a night initially, before committing to a long stay.

In budget hotels, pre-booking is not common and they may well be full by the evening so in-person hotel hunting is best done during the day.

Expect to pay between IQD60,000 and IQD100,000 for pretty basic accommodation and, at that price, it’s wise to keep your expectations low, as local standards can be variable.

Having said that, even budget accommodation is likely to have en-suite facilities, a kettle, free bottled water and tea, and should include breakfast. All hotels should have wi-fi, although this may be sluggish, especially if the hotel is busy.

In cheaper accommodation, the air-conditioning probably won’t work when the power supply switches from the government electricity to generator-run, so this might be a deal-breaker in summer months.

There are some super-cheap options - aimed at locals up from southern provinces to earn a basic living in the capital as daily labourers - which advertise at IQD10,000 to IQD20,000 but we have not tried these, having been advised they would be unsuitable.

Some (mostly mid-range and high-end) hotels can be booked through online international booking sites, with more steadily being added. However, the reality may not live up to the photos. Booking online is likely to work out more expensive (and will usually be charged in dollars not dinar) so, if you book in advance, we suggest choosing a night or two and then trying to broker a better deal in person (and preferably in dinar) once you have arrived.

It really can be worth booking ahead as Baghdad hotels can be busy and may be fully-booked if you risk just turning up, especially at 4am after a night-flight. We also advise confirming your booking by email or telephone call, as sometimes pre-booked visitors (who have booked through reputable international sites) arrive to find their booking doesn’t seem to exist.

We also advise travellers landing at Baghdad Airport to print out a copy of their hotel booking, to avoid being asked for a $50 ‘fine’ (see Arriving at Baghdad Airport) for arriving without.

When booking a hotel in person or checking in, expect to pay in advance for the night and to present your passport, so the photo page and your visa can be photocopied. Hotels are highly unlikely to ask to retain your passport. If they do try, just explain that you need to carry it with you.

Staff at higher end hotels are likely to speak English but, at budget ones, English amongst staff may be limited or even non-existent. Hand gestures and deploying a translation tool on your phone should be adequate. And, even if you’re feeling stressed out or overtired, a smile goes a long way.

There are hotels all over Baghdad but some popular locations are the Karada, Jadriyah and Sa’adoon districts, as these are short bus-rides, or occasionally walking distance, from the bustling cafes and restaurants in Baghdad’s lively Karada district.

To date, we have stayed in some Baghdad accommodation that many international visitors may find unacceptable, including from a cleanliness perspective (bathrooms and bed linen) and, one one occasion, we spent a hapless night in a windowless room. If you’re concerned about cleanliness, we advise travelling with a sleeping sack - a (more expensive) silk one is small and light so a great option (see our Packing for Iraq post) - which can be deployed over suspect bedding.

We have also stayed in some budget hotels where our room overlooked the local (massive) generator, which belted out toxic smog and was also incredibly loud. It’s worth asking to see the room before committing and, even if you’ve already taken your bags up, it’s not too late to ask to change rooms. In our experience, Iraqi hotel staff will always do their best to try and help.

Note: If you book a high-end hotel in Baghdad’s Green Zone (for example the Rasheed Hotel), be aware that the Green Zone closes at 11pm and thereafter you will not be able to leave or enter until the morning.