Visiting the Great Ziggurat of Ur

The Great Ziggurat of Ur - impressing visitors for 4,000-odd years.

The impressive structure of the remains of the Sumerian Ziggurat of Ur has been captivating travellers for centuries, as its sheer size (and the present structure is missing the upper levels, which gives an indication of its original enormity), were never fully covered over by sand. Its ongoing significance for humanity is attested to by the ziggurat now forming part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site listing: “The Ahwar of Southern Iraq: Refuge of Biodiversity and the Relict Landscape of the Mesopotamian Cities.”

The first bricks being laid around 2100 BC, the ziggurat was built as part of a temple complex dedicated to the moon god Nanna, the patron god of the ancient city of Ur, at least until King Shulgi (who completed the ziggurat his father had started) proclaimed himself to be a god.

It was restored by the Neo-Babylonian king Nabonidus in the 6th century BC, who raised it to seven levels rather than the original three. After falling into obscurity, it was rediscovered in the mid 19th-century, when initial excavations were started before it was more comprehensively excavated in the 1920s by British archaeologist Leonard Woolley.

The outer facade of the lower level and the monumental staircase were partially reconstructed under Saddam Hussein, with pretty stunning effect. For the 2021 visit of His Holiness the late Pope Francis, night-time illuminations were installed but unfortunately these do not currently appear to be regularly deployed.

If you get lucky, the local guardian who has lived nearby for decades might be on hand to talk about the history of the site. He speaks reasonable English and is very knowledgeable but even he needs a day off sometimes.

The entry fee is IQD25,000 for foreigners and IQD3,000 for Iraqis, if levied. You pay at a little gate, just after the checkpoint at the outer entrance and no ticket appears to be issued.

Current limitations of the site

It used to be possible to ascend the monumental staircase and enjoy far-reaching views but this is now forbidden, with the staircase fenced off. Although it really was a treat climbing up those stairs, the restrictions are for the benefit of the site - which is well-visited by Iraqis as well as foreigners - to support long-term preservation of this impressive structure.

There’s also a sensible sign installed at the base of the staircase warning visitors not to pick up any items lying around. Not picking anything up - for example, pottery fragments or even stones - should be observed at all archaeological or historic sites across Iraq. Taking even the smallest item can (and indeed did in 2022) result in arrest and imprisonment.

Although no guards being in evidence around the site may give you the confidence to stray from the wooden walkways, the whole place is on camera, with loudspeakers dotted around, through which guards admonish visitors for such wrongdoings as dropping litter or poor parking. The loudspeakers are very loud.

The site should technically be fairly expansive but, at time of writing, much is fenced off, including the substantial area where Woolley excavated the royal tombs, finding important treasures including the golden lyre and many exquisite jewellery pieces. Formerly accessible, the Edublamahr Temple, which features one of the world’s oldest arches, the walls of which contain a hidden cuneiform tablet which is fun to find, is also currently fenced off whilst undergoing restoration.

The reputed birthplace of the Prophet Abraham (pronounced Ibrahim by Arabic speakers), which lies some distance from the ziggurat in a separate section near where Pope Francis held an interfaith dialogue, unfortunately remains completely inaccessible and cannot even be seen from a distance.

Although the excessive fencing may be a little disappointing, it is still possible to go right up close to the walls of the ziggurat itself and you’ll get some stunning photos, whatever the weather. Although it’s very popular at weekends, visitors are thoughtful with regard to taking turns for selfies and pictures in front of the monumental staircase. If you have the patience to wait a while, you should be able to grab some photos without many other people in them, or ones where it looks like you had the site entirely to yourself. If visiting during the week, you may well still be amongst the only visitors.

Exit through the gift shop

This is one of few sites where there is now a gift shop of sorts - a tiny shack which has recently appeared selling a somewhat bizarre mix of random vintage items and plaster cast magnets, statues and plaques of some of Iraq’s historic sites. The items are inexpensive and making a little purchase is a great way to contribute to the local economy. When buying anything that may look old, it’s always wise to ask for a receipt, even if this comprises a dated handwritten note, just in case it provokes questions later at the airport.

At time of writing, there is still no cafe or even a tea stand at the site, so make sure you have supplies (or at least water) with you. There are basic toilet facilities at the site entrance, beside where you buy entrance tickets.

Getting there

It’s common to pair up the marshes and Ur and it is possible to do both in one exhausting day trip from Baghdad but this is something we’d struggle to recommend. A much better option is to take your time by driving from Baghdad and seeing either Ur or the marshes on the first day, staying overnight in Nasiriyah (and contributing some much-needed tourist money to the local economy) and heading out to the marshes or Ur on the following day.

You can easily broker a taxi deal from Nasiriyah to Ur and, unless you’re an archaeologist or keen historian, an hour or two should be sufficient. Expect to pay around IQD8,000 one way from Nasiriyah city centre to Ur and you might be able to negotiate around IQD15,000 for a round-trip there and back. Without any Arabic, you’re more likely to end up agreeing around IQD10,000/IQD20,000 respectively.

We still struggle to pronounce “Ur” correctly, so you may need to try a few different versions of the word, with excessive emphasis on the “r”. You could either ask the taxi to wait or return after two hours to collect you, making sure you have the driver’s number. With any there and back fare, you do not need to pay anything until the end of the return journey.