Visiting at least one of Iraq’s religious shrines or mausoleums is an experience, in our opinion, not to be missed. Not only do shrines and mausoleums form an important part of Iraq’s history and culture, but the architecture is often amazing, the atmosphere unique and the overall experience unforgettable, especially at the larger shrines.

Iraq has Shia shrines and Sunni, Shia and Sufi mausoleums. The larger Shia shrines are usually open 24/7 and smaller shrines will often stay open quite late, until around 10 or 11pm.

Shrines are often in a separate room inside a mosque but not always. In some cases, mausoleums are in a separate room adjacent to the mosque and occasionally have a separate entrance. A handful of mausoleums are not part of a mosque.

Most shrines and mausoleums feature a grave (usually covered with ornate cloths) encased in a rather beautiful metalwork outer structure. This means that visitors cannot actually touch the tomb but rather only this outer metal structure.

But I’m not a Muslim…

Not a Muslim? Not a problem. Anyone is welcome to visit Islamic religious sites across Iraq, including Christians or those of other faiths.

Even among Iraqis themselves, Shia shrines may attract other denominations of Islam, and Sunni mausoleums may likewise attract Shia visitors. Sufi locations, although largely Sunni, may also attract Shia visitors. Muslims may also drop into some of Iraq’s many churches. This is all part of the wonderful multi-ethnic and multi-faith population which forms Iraq.

Many shrines, including some of the smaller ones, are well-accustomed to receiving visitors of other nationalities but they still don’t see all that many Europeans, so western visitors may attract attention and it’s likely that shrine custodians and sometimes other visitors may try and strike up conversation or ask where you are from. If you don’t speak Arabic, have no idea what is going on or would rather not engage, you can smile and say: “English. No Arabic.” (Or whatever nationality you may be).

Security at shrines

Most major Shia shrines have security, as do larger Sunni mausoleums. This usually includes bag checks and ‘pat-down’ body checks. The shrines of Najaf and Karbala often have several such checks, first when entering the outer compound and thereafter before entering the actual mosque.

There are separate security points for men and women, usually on different sides of a gate or road. The women’s security is usually behind a curtain or swathe of black fabric. If you’re not sure exactly how to proceed, we suggest pausing to observe others until you understand enough to imitate. Otherwise, just try and enter. If you are heading for the wrong entrance or are not suitably attired, someone is sure to intervene and put you on the right track.

Larger shrines at Karbala and Najaf have lockers, manned by personnel, for bags and phones. Smaller shrines do not have such lockers but, if you are carrying a sizeable bag or a large camera, you may be asked to leave this at a reception area with staff. Otherwise, you should only need to leave your shoes outside the entrance to the mosque.

If the shine or mosque is busy, there may be a very large number of pairs of shoes, so we advise trying to choose a recognisable place for yours, as the various comings and goings mean the landscape of footwear may have changed by the time you emerge. Try not to worry about your expensive trainers being stolen. We can only recall one instance (in a great many shrine visits) where one member of our party couldn’t find his shoes and had to buy a new pair.

Attire for women

Most shrines, mosques and even mausoleums will require women to be dressed in an abaya and wearing a headscarf and, at the shrine cities of Karbala and Najaf, you will be expected to wear full length clothing and headscarf throughout your visit to the cities, and a full abaya (with no hair showing at all) will be required to enter the shrines there. in general, Sunni mosques and mausoleums are inclined to be a little less strict, requiring a basic abaya and headscarf combo.

The traditional Iraqi abaya is a single large garment consisting of a swathe of black fabric which goes over your head and down to your feet, encasing you completely in black. Around the main Shia shrines, it is usually easy to buy an abaya, or a temporary abaya (a completely enveloping garment of thin, often floral, fabric) near the shrine. As most women there will be wearing the black abaya, you may feel you stand out more in the floral version, but it’s a totally acceptable garment and - being much cheaper than a traditional abaya - is a good option if you’re only visiting one or two sites. Some of the female faithful from other parts of the world wear different attire but the most common remains the traditional black abaya of Iraq and Iran.

Should you wish to look more the part and have your own abaya - potentially a good option if you’re planning on visiting a number of shrines - you may wish to take a little time shopping for one you like before reaching the shrine entrance. If you are planning on travelling around the south extensively, especially if travelling solo and taking in some off-the-beaten track locations, you may like to wear your abaya beyond the shrine cities, as this is the common attire and should minimise the amount of attention you attract.

The traditional abaya is voluminous and, therefore is quite a heavy garment. The inexperienced may have some difficulty keeping it firmly in place over the head and, as showing hair is unacceptable in the holy cities, you might like to couple this with a tightly-wrapped hijab or one of the “instant hijabs” (like a kind of snood in a stretchy fabric that you can pull over the hair) which are widely available.

When visiting Karbala or Najaf, you will already be suitably attired by the time you reach the entrance into the mosque. Although cosmetics are very popular with Iraqi ladies, excessive make-up is not acceptable inside the shrine. Therefore, if you are wearing noticeable make-up, at the final security check you will be given a wet-wipe with which to remove this.

Attire for men

Men should also dress very conservatively when visiting shrines, with full-length trousers.

Separate entrances

Men and women will have to enter most shrines via separate entrances and, depending on the shrine, may be able to reunite inside the mosque area, but usually there is again segregation at the actual shrine itself, with the encased tomb partitioned off into two sections, one for men and one for women.

While smaller shrines will usual afford a quiet, reflective visit, at Najaf and Karbala, if it’s busy, it may be quite intense around the actual shrine. We suggest you enter in a relaxed and open frame of mind, and soak up the unique atmosphere.

We wouldn’t want to spoil the experience by trying to describe it in depth but you may witness customs or activities that seem unique. For example, it can be common to see people cling to the metal structure encasing the tomb, especially when they are suffering great difficulties in life, and you may see people crying. At busy times in Karbala (when there is a long queue of ladies waiting to reach the tomb), female staff stewards may usher people along with a feather duster.

Visitors may also rub strips of green fabric or prayer beads against the metalwork, which they will carry away with them, as a talisman. If you wish to do likewise, strips of fabric can be purchased from stalls outside the shrine compounds. Visitors may also tie fabric strips or prayer beads to the metalwork. There is usually a plastic barrier behind the metalwork which goes about halfway up and, over this, people may push money, handwritten notes or prayer beads.

It is often not possible to take phones or cameras into the larger shrines but, at any shrine, mosque or mausoleum, it’s important to be very respectful and cautious when photographing other visitors, especially women.

The outer courtyard

Because men and women are separated and, inside the shrine it may be extremely busy or you may lose track of time, our tip for managing a mixed gender visit (as, say, a man and a woman), is to arrange a meeting point (and vague time-frame) outside in the shrine courtyard, where it is easier for men and women to mingle.

Shrines attract many visitors, including soldiers and civilians, and families and pilgrims, both from inside and outside Iraq. As the large shrines are open all day and night, you may also see people sleeping there, or occasionally, especially at Najaf, coffins being carried in. Shrine visits are often a family event and, in the courtyard areas, groups of people may be eating a picnic together.